My host this summer is a family of subsistence farmers. Kouwenam (the dad) and Tikenawe (the mom) have 7 kids - 2 are married and live elsewhere, and a middle child is living in nearby Pagoudah where she goes to school (she works for a family - domestic chores and tending their bar- and in exchange she gets to stay there and her school fees are paid for). The other four kids are Esocholo (19 and rebellious), Gros (~15 and the only boy among 6 other girls), Bienvenue (~10) and Eli (7, she is really timid and is only now starting to talk to me... or shes scared of me).
Its ironic living here - my project is on child trafficking yet I have so many kids doing free labor for me. Bien and Eli sweep my room at least once a day, Gros carries my backpack and boils water for my morning oatmeal, and Esocholo cooks dinner. Since they discovered I dont really like the traditional pate, I now eat spaghetti nearly every night, its a double edged sword I guess.
With 99% of the day`s work done for me, it is still really difficult to understand what life living in poverty, off the land, in a mud and tin compound on a mountain is really like. There are hints - men bent over working the fields, little kids with swollen bellies and inflated bellybuttons, and empty Coartem (malaria meds) packets on the ground - but it is mostly hidden by the friendly, generous, and vibrant personalities.
Although many people speak some French, I am still working on learning a little Kabyé. Right now I knoz the 4 time of day salutations (eg good day night etc) and a couple of other phrases and words.
Happy almost 4th of July!!
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